Geneva

Geneva (French: Genève, German: Genf; [1]), Switzerland is one of the world's major centers of international diplomacy, having served as the site of the initial headquarters of the International Committee of the Red Cross before that. Although the United Nations is now headquartered in New York, the organization still retains a large presence in Geneva at the Palais des Nations and many of its sister/child organizations such as the World Health Organization and UNICEF have their world headquarters here. Pop. (metro) 645,000 (2000).

Geneva is officially a French-speaking city, although with the large international presence English takes a close second. Spanish, Russian, Portuguese and Arabic speakers abound, and of course you will also occasionally hear Swiss German, and Italian.

Image overlooking Geneva with the mountain "Le Môle" seen behind Cathedral St. Pierre

Understand

In 1536 a young man named Jean Calvin, fleeing Catholic persecution in France, spent a night in Geneva- the city he ended up spending his life in. After being expelled from Geneva for nearly three years, Calvin returned triumphantly in 1541 to help elevate the city to the rank of a «Protestant Rome ». The intellectual influence of the Reformation extended to all realms of Genevan life: politics, economy and administration.

Geneva was an independent republic from at least the 16th century until it became a Swiss Canton on 31 December, 1813. This is a point of some pride to the Genevois, who still refer to their Canton as the République et Canton de Genève. A favorite festival is the yearly celebration of the Escalade, which commemorates a failed attempt in 1602 by the forces of the Dukes of Savoy to invade the city by climbing and otherwise breaching the city walls. Having turned aside this invasion attempt at the cost of only 16 lives, Geneva had secured its liberty, since the House of Savoy was never again strong enough on this side of the Alps to attempt such an invasion.

Geneva is still a very proud city. Some find it downright stuffy although there is quite a bit more life to be found if you look under the surface, especially if you speak some French.

Get in

Due as much to its location as its international status, Geneva serves as a transportation hub for most of French speaking Switzerland, and for access to the Swiss Alps from points west.

By plane

Geneva airport is served by almost all European carriers, and by two daily trans-atlantic flights, one from New York, JFK on Swiss and one from Newark on Continental, otherwise when flying from the U.S. you will have to change planes at your airline's hub airport.

Within the last few years Geneva itself has become a hub for the low-cost carrier Easy Jet serving a number of destinations in Europe including Great Britain.

The airport itself has a UBS bank with ATMs and exchange machines in the arrival area. There is an American Express office just besides passport control in the departure lounge. There are several cafes and duty free shopping as well, open 8am-11pm.

To get into town from the airport, taxis cost approx. 30 CHF; the number 10 bus leaves every 15 minutes from 6am-11pm, get off at the 22-Cantons stop for train station; all trains leaving Geneva airport train station stop at the main train/bus station. Train/bus tickets are around 3CHF (valid for one hour) and can be purchased at machines at the bus stop and in the station. There is a change machine next to the UBS ATM and at the bus stop.

By train

The Swiss Federal Railway serves Geneva's Gare de Cornavin with trains to most destinations in Switzerland at least once per hour, as well as to Paris via the SNCF's TGV or "High Speed Train," or Milan and Venice by the Swiss-Italian Cisalpino (CHEEZ-al-PEEN-o). The French SNCF also has a station in Eaux Vives which can be reached from Cornavin via the number 16 tram (Amandolier/SNCF stop). This station serves points south such as Annemasse, and Chamonix - Mt. Blanc.

For more information:

• Swiss Federal Railway, telephone 0900-300-300 from within Switzerland or +41-900-300-300 from outside, provides a useful online travel planner which includes information about local bus and tram services as well as rail services and can plan your journey from any address to Geneva.

All trains arriving in the Gare de Cornavin will usually have the Geneva airport as their final destination, which means you don't have to use the TPG tram or bus to get there. This is fortunate, because all bus/shuttle transfers to Chamonix leave at the airport arrivals.

By car

The motorway network brings you right into Geneva : only 40 km from Annecy and 80 km from Chamonix with customs at Bardonnex - Saint-Julien; you need the compulsory motorway sticker (single annual 40 CHF fee) to come through this customs office. Purchase of the motorway tax sticker at one of the customs is obligatory in order to drive on Swiss motorways.

By bus

Geneva is served by a number of regular international bus routes (Bus station : tel. +41(0)22 732 02 30). Additionally, the TPG (Geneva Public Transport) provide regular services from the neighboring French towns of Saint-Julien, Archamps, Thoiry, Ferney-Voltaire, Moillesulaz (tel. +41(0)22 308 34 34). See the TPG (Transport Public de Geneve) website for bus timetables.

By boat

Regular boat service is provided, mainly in turn of the last century steamboats from ports all around Lake Geneva by - Compagnie Générale de Navigation. All boats arrive at the Paquis port after docking briefly at Parc des Eaux Vives, and the Jardin Anglais.

Private boat tours and transfers from Geneva to any port on the lake by Léman Transfers. Groups of up to 6 passengers can be privately chauffeured around the lake. - Léman Transfers.

Get around

Geneva, like most cities in Switzerland is a marvel of public transportation efficiency. Transports Publics Genevois provides frequent bus, tram, 'mouette' (boat) and suburban train service to within a block or two of most locations in the city and canton. There is also an expanding network of super frequent trams. Many lines have their hub at the Cornavin train station, a few others at Place Bel-Air on the old-town side of the river. Tickets which cover both trams and buses must be bought from ticket machines (located at every stop) before boarding the transport.

File:LogoVelolove.gif

Geneva's pro-bike campaign poster

Geneva is also a great town to get around in by bicycle. Except for the old-town, the city is fairly flat, and though there are some streets that are dangerous to ride, there is almost always a safe, fast route to your destination. If you want to know the best routes you should get a copy of the beautifully designed VELO-LOVE plan de ville which is available at all bike shops in Geneva, or by writing to: [email protected] or calling (+41) 22 418 42 00.

A social organization called Genève Roule lends bicycles free of charge for the day, from 30 April through 30 October. A passport or identity card must be shown and a refundable deposit of 50 Swiss francs is required. Four kiosks, staffed by asylum seekers, are located along the lake, behind the railway station and in the plaine de Plainpalais.

If you want to explore the moutainous countryside, or go skiing in one of the ski resorts in the Alps, getting a car is a better option. Numerous local and international car rental service providers operate from the airport. They provide customized traveling services to the needs of tourists visiting Geneva. You can find public parking in Place de Cornavin, at the southern end of the Mt. Blanc bridge, and under the Plaine de Plainpalais. It's much easier to get a space at one of these large underground lots than on the street, and they are all convenient to most of the attractions listed on this page.

See

Landmarks

• Jet d'Eau, the Rade (visible from most of the Lac Léman waterfront). 10AM-11PM, all year round. One of the crowning symbols of Geneva is the monumental Jet d'Eau, a fountain of water pumped 140 meters into the air. The spectacular plume was once an occasional pressure release for hydro-power generation on the Rhône River, but people liked it so much that in 1891 the city created a permanent pumped fountain. It's beautifully lit at night. Best viewed from a distance -- the surrounding half a kilometer is soaked with water. Free. Photos of Geneva and its citizens
• Cathédrale St-Pierre., Place St. Pierre (At the highest point in the Old Town), June-Sept: Monday to Saturday 9 am-7pm, Sunday 11am-7pm; Oct-May: Monday to Saturday 10am-noon & 2-5pm, Sunday 11am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm. The new Espace Saint Pierre pass includes entrance to all three sites of Cour Saint-Pierre, a noteworthy space of unique spiritual and cultural importance. The Cathedral and its towers, which both embody the high point of the Reformed tradition and explore the origins of Christianity with an extensive archaeological site, are now complemented by the International Museum of the Reformation, on the ground floor of the Maison Mallet. An underground passage, reopened when the Museum was created, connects the two buildings. Nearby, the Auditoire, where Calvin taught, completes a complex that is both representative of the past and open to current questions. The new Espace Saint-Pierre thus aims to contribute to our understanding of today’s world – between tradition and modernity, cultural experimentation and spiritual practice. These three buildings invite the visitor to explore the city’s history. Religious denominations aside, Espace Saint Pierre represents a spirit that continues to guide the city and citizens of Geneva today. Adults 16 CHF (Seniors, Disable, Students aged 16 to 25, and groups of more than 15 qualify for 10 CHF pass, Children aged 7 to 16 qualify for a 8 CHF pass. Entry to the church itself is free, of course donations are welcome). http://www.musee-reforme.ch/e/info/stpierre.html
• Palais des Nations., 14, avenue de la Paix (Number 8 bus, stop at Appia), +41-22-917 48 96 / 917 45 39 (Fax +41 22 917 0032, Email: [email protected]). Open every day from April to October, from 10 a.m. to 12 noon and from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m, in July and August every day from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m, and the rest of the year from Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 12 noon and 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. (except over the Christmas period). Originally built to house the League of Nations, the Palais is worth visiting just to take in the magnificent Assembly Hall, in addition to the large collection of public art, the library, and the landscaped grounds. CHF 8.50 each for adults. (groups of 20 adults or more : 20% discount; private tour: 1-14 adults : CHF 127,50; CHF 6.50 each for students, senior citizens and disabled persons; CHF 4.00 for schoolchildren; free for children under six years old.) Passports are required for entry. http://www.unog.ch/

Museums and Galleries

• International Museum of the Reformation, 4, rue du Cloître (Bus n° 36 to Cathédrale/ Bus n° 2, 7, 20, stop Molard/ Tram 12, 16, stop Molard), + 41 22 310 24 31. (Fax: +41 22 310 74 45, Email: [email protected]). Every day except Monday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on 24, 25 and 31 December and on 1 January. Open Easter, Pentecost and Jeune Federal Mondays. Access for disabled visitors. Installed on the ground floor of the magnificent Maison Mallet (next to Saint-Pierre Cathedral), this new Museum presents the main spiritual and cultural elements of the Reformation. Unique objects, manuscripts, rare books, engravings and paintings illustrate the close ties between Geneva and the Reformation. State-of-the-art technology welcomes a modern audience: films, a music room and demonstrations, including many for children, invite visitors to both rediscover the past and imagine the future. 10 CHF for Adults (Seniors, Disabled, Students from 16 to 25 years old qualify for a 7 CHF admission fee, Children from 7 to 16 years old and groups of 15 or more people qualify for a 5 CHFadmission fee, Children under 7 free). http://www.musee-reforme.ch/index-e.php
• Museum of the International Committee of the Red Cross., 17, Avenue de la Paix (8, F, V, or Z bus to Appia 1.80 Chf from the central station), + 41 22 748 95 25. (Fax: +41 22 748 95 28). Every day except Tuesday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on 24, 25 and 31 December and on 1 January. Access for disabled visitors. The Museum of the I.C.R.C. is one of the best in Europe, providing detailed photographic and other physical evidence of the I.C.R.C.'s service to humanity during countless wars and natural disasters. The displays are striking and affecting, but somehow manage to avoid taking sides. 10 Chf for Adults (Children, I.C.R.C. members, the elderly and others qualify for a 5 Chf admission fee). http://www.micr.org/
• Musée ARIANA, Avenue de la Paix 10 (About midway between Place des Nations and the entrances to the Palais and the I.C.R.C), +41 22 418 54 50. From 11am to 5pm daily except Tuesdays. Occupying a big chunk of what would otherwise be the UN campus, the Ariana Museum offers a huge collection (16,000 pieces) of ceramics from around Europe and the far East. 8 Chf. http://karaart.com/ariana/index.html
• Musée d'Art Moderne et Contemporain, Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 10 (Number 1 bus to Ecole des Medécins), +41 22 320 61 22. Tuesday to Friday, noon to 6:00pm, Weekends 11:00am to 6:00pm. Late modern, post-modern, and contemporary works by internationally known artists, as well as a special collection of Swiss conceptual work. 8 Chf. http://www.mamco.ch/
• Musée d'Histoire naturelle, Route de Malagnou 1. (Bus 1-8 (arrêts Tranchées & Muséum) 20-27 (arrêt Muséum), trams 12-16 (arrêt Villereuse)), +41 22 418 63 00. Tuesday to Sunday, 9:30AM to 5:00PM. Geneva has a nice museum which is worth a visit, especially if you have youth and children. And it's free for all. http://www.ville-ge.ch/musinfo/mhng/

Do

• Téléphérique du Salève, Veyrier, France (Number 8 Bus to either Veyrier Douane or Veyrier Tournettes. Or line 41 to Veyrier Ecole), Just over the French Border, this high alpine ridge has a stunning view of Mt. Blanc and the Lake Geneva area and miles of walking trails. A cute little corner shop in Pas de l'Echelle Village (France) sells about 100 varieties of French cheeses and is open on Sundays. Don't forget your passport. The Association Genevoise des Amis du Salève (AGAS, Tel: 022 796 41 33 or http://www.rando-saleve.net) organizes free hikes around Geneva every Sunday. Start at 10h (sharp) at terminus (End station) of bus number 8 at Veyrier-Douane.

Events

• March Motor Show (best in Europe)
• May Caves Ouvertes [2] - FREE annual event. Sample wine at Geneva's wineries while exploring the canton's rural side.
• June Bol D'Or Yacht Race (biggest in Europe)
• June Fête de la Musique, +41 22 418 65 32 - [3]. For three days in June (the next edition will take place the 22-23-24 June 2007) the whole City of Geneva is a stage. Actually there are on the order of 40 of them. The musical offerings include children's choirs, punk rock, chamber orchestras, jam bands, avant-guard jazz, klezmer, and drum & bass DJs .. hopefully you get the idea. The venues are as diverse as the music, with stages inside and out of l'Usine, Parc des Bastions, and even Cathédral St. Pierre. And it's absolutely FREE, every single show.
• August Fete de Geneve (week long party including best fireworks display in Europe)
• December L'Escalade

Parks

It's worth taking at least a day to explore the green places of Geneva, of which there are quite a few, not the least because some of the more interesting parts of town are between those green places. There are a number of suggested promenades for which there are maps available at the tourist office on the Ile de la Machine.

• Parc des Bastions. Entrance at Place Neuve, or just down rue St. Léger from Place Bourg de Four. This lovely tree lined park which is home to the liberal arts campus of the University of Geneva features giant chessboards and even larger statues of Geneva's Calvinist founding fathers, and it's directly between the old town and Plain de Plainpalais, so it makes a good transitional area for exploring. Free WiFi access in the whole park.
• Parc des Eaux Vives. Entrance at the far end of Rue des Eaux Vives and the number 2 bus line. There´s also a boat dock, with service from the Pâquis. This park offers promenades and views over the lake of the U.N. campus and the Palais des Nations. Geneva beach is at the end furthest from the city, on the lakefront.
• Bois de la Bâtie Just over the river Arve from Jonction. Most of this woodsy bluff has been left in a more-or-less natural state, though there are walking trails around the edges. The trails connect eventually with a sidewalk which crosses a railroad bridge to the St. Jean neighborhood. There is also a small zoo at the western edge of the woods.

List of parks on Geneva's official tourism website.

Learn

Language

French language lessons are available, both through formal courses and informal arrangements, but in both cases they can be more expensive than other French-speaking countries.

Migros (the local supermarket) offers relatively affordable French classes. Geneva University also offers quite cheap classes, and there are a number of the big language schools, including Berlitz and Inlingua.

One well known by international visitors is The Ecole Du Monde [4] located near the train station and near the lake of Geneva.

Higher Education

Cern tunnel

There are several English language universities in Geneva, mostly focusing on international business and relations.

The world-famous European Laboratory for Particle Physics (CERN) is in Meyrin, just outside of Geneva. Currently under construction is the Large Hadron Collider (LHC) which, at 27 kilometers in circumference, already holds the title of "world's largest machine," when finished, will hopefully answer many fundamental questions in particle physics, and open a host of new ones. CERN has a famous summer student program that accepts something like 150 European students, 20 American students, and a handful from other countries. If you are interested in this program, you might want to read the Camp CERN Manifesto. CERN also features an exhibition open to the public, and tours can be arranged in advance.

Work

Most non-Swiss professionals working in Geneva are employed by one of the United Nations agencies or international banks. UN employees do not need a visa to live and work in Switzerland, but the jobs can be hard to find unless you are already in Geneva.

For more information on working for the UN: UN-Employment: How to find a job with the UN. A list of current opportunities with Geneva-based international organizations can be found on the UNjobs web site.

It is also possible to find work as an au pair, a housekeeper, or at one of the many bars. You really do need to be in town to set this sort of thing up. If you want to do household work you will probably want to advertise on the bulletin boards which can be found at the entrances of most grocery stores, and at the English and American churches, and at the American Women's Club. For a bar tending job you do what you would do to get a similar job anywhere else, go talk to the manager (you should know enough French to serve drinks, obviously).

Buy

Chocolate can be bought at any number of specialty stores, but the stuff at the grocery is just as good for a fraction of the price (1-3 CHF a bar). Meanwhile, if you have a place to prepare meals the grocery stores in Switzerland offer the best possible dining deal for your money. For many fresh foods you'll pay a lot more than you are accustomed to paying in the U.S. or Britain.

Wine and spirits cost much less than in Anglophone countries, and the local stuff is particularly cheap, and not just drinkable but quite good. Some say that the only reason Swiss wines are not well known internationally is that the Swiss drink all of it.

Shopping for clothing and accessories can be disappointing in Geneva. Most offerings are usually expensive and uninteresting, unless you're really after that floor-length purple fur coat with the rhinestone trim. Geneva is home to several watch manufacturers, and there are many jewelers and horologers with a great selection.

If you are interested in taking or sending home some outwardly Swiss souvenirs you can certainly find them in Geneva, mainly along the main streets leading down to the lake from Gare Cornavin. There are also a couple of good spots on the other side of the lake near the end of the Mont Blanc bridge. You should be able to easily find at reasonable prices:

• Cuckoo clocks (in fact originally from southern Germany and formerly produced in Hong Kong *(now in mainland China)... but who cares!)
• Swiss Army Knifes, with Wenger and Victorinox being the two most well-known brands (Best price at Migros/Coop)
• Almost any sort of object with a cow or a Swiss flag printed on it
• Pinocchio Jouets. 10, rue Etienne-Dumont. +41 22 310 40 47 (fax: +41 22 310 03 92). Mon 2:00pm-6:30pm, Tue-Thur 9:30am-6:30pm, Sat 9:00am-5:00pm. If there is someone small traveling with you, or waiting back home you should consider a visit to Pinocchio in the old-town, where you'll find a huge collection of toys and games which you might not be able to find back home including, for example, a very cute if unlikely escargot à bascule or rocking snail. [5]

Want more? La Rue du Marché, a 5 minute walk southwards from the train station, has just about everything. From the traditional to the modern, from souvenirs to household appliances to libraries to prescription glasses. This is one of Geneva's busiest streets, and is kept clean and appealing. Prices are fair for the most part, but checking several stores before buying, or asking a friendly-looking passer-by for shopping tips can't hurt.

Eat

Geneva has a huge number of restaurants for a city its size, and the international community means there's more variety than you'll find in most Swiss cities. On the downside, Geneva is possibly the most expensive city in an expensive country.

In addition to the listings below you might try Resto-ranG or RestauGuide. For info for Vegetarians check out RegVeg Geneva.

Budget

There are many budget spots located around the train station and in the nearby Paquis district, or near rue de l'Ecole de Médecine off of Plaine de Plainpalais.

• Expresso Club, rue des Pâquis 25 (just off of Place de Navigation), (+41) 22 738 84 88. Weekdays for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner until 2:00am. A tiny bar and three tables means this little local spot is usually packed with a very international crowd of people who know where to get the best pizza, salads, and pasta dishes in town, with many vegetarian selections. Espresso club keeps the ovens going late for late working customers and it's a nice spot for a cafe and newspaper afternoon as well. 14 - 20 Chf for most menu items.
• Café Art's, rue des Pâquis 17 (+41) 22 738 07 97 Weekdays from 5:00pm until 2:00am, weekends from 11:00am until 2:00am. Café Art's (sic) has a limited menu of salads and pasta dishes, but all around or under 15 CHF and service is non-stop all day. 8 - 20 Chf.
• Boky, rue des Alpes 21 (also Rue Neuve du Molard 19), (+41) 78 628 16 99 6pm until midnight every day. Large selection of chinese and japanese dishes. Fast, but impolite service. Quality chinese food (it's always full of chinese customers) but no fancy atmosphere. 14-20 Chf.
• Piment Vert, 4 place Grenus (the small plaza behind the Manor department store). (+41) 22 731 93 03 Indian and Sri-Lankian fast food in a charmingly appointed space. There's also a terrace during warm weather. 14-20 Chf
• Chez Ma Cousine, pl. du Bourg-de-Four 6 ( +41 22 310 96 96), ch. du Petit-Saconnex 2 (+41 22 733 79 85), or rue Lissignol 5 (+41 22 731 98 98). A simple menu: chicken, chicken, or chicken. The roasted chicken is what they're famous for, and two chicken salads make the rest of the regular menu, each under CHF14.
• Mike Wong, bd James-Fazy 11, (+41 22 731 49 25) and rue du Conseil-Général 20 (+41 22 800 15 03). Fast Thai, with great Pad Thai noodles and Thom Yam Kung soup.
• été comme hiver, Place de Saint Gervais 1, (+41 22 731 56 30) [6] Soup and/or salad is the specialty at this lunch place just across from a lovely terrace on the Rhône. If you're really hungry you should probably order both.

Mid-range

• Café de Paris, rue du Mont-Blanc 26 [7]. Vegetarians beware, this Genevois favorite serves one dish only - steak, chips, and salad. But apparently they do it very well.
• Le Comptoir, Rue de Richemont 9. Easy-Listener-chic Asian/fusion restaurant and bar sporting white leather sofas and the occasional local DJ. Not a cheap choice, but the food is unusually interesting and the crowd friendly.
• L'Europa, Rue du Valais 16 [8]. A little hard to find, but worth it for the fresh, hand made pasta dishes and generous portions. A favorite for lunch among the UN crowd.
• Café du Soleil, Place du Petit-Saconnex, 22 733 34 17 [9]. This ancient Petit Saconnex roadhouse claims to be possibly the oldest restaurant in Geneva and to have probably the best fondue in Switzerland.
• Brasserie Lipp, 8 Rue de la Confederation, +41 22 311 10 11. Good Brasserie, lots of seafood.
• Café Gourmand, 35 Rue des Bains, +41 22 328 56 56 [Cafegourmand.ch]. Great friendly atmosphere specialising in East-West fusion dishes. Open weekdays.

Splurges

• Le Triporteur, 33 rue de Carouge, +41 22 321 21 81. This little place fills a nice niche at the low end of the high end, where it is likely to impress the heck out of a date without overly denting the bank account. The room is cozy and romantic. The service is attentive, but not at all pushy or snobbish. The Triporteur has the feel of a lot of the better restaurants in say, San Francisco. Expect to spend around 50 Chf per person if you're drinking the house wine.
• Café des Négociants, 29 rue de la Filature, Carouge [10]. Wonderful hip restaurant with wonderful hip food and a wonderful hip wine cellar where you can wander around and choose from all the wonderful hip wine on the racks. You can guess what the desserts are like. Everyone wants a piece of this place, so plan to reserve up to a week or so in advance.
• Edelweiss Manotel, Place de la Navigation 2 [11]. This is a must if you want to taste the Swiss culture. You will get the cheese fondue, of course, but also some other local delicacies. But you get there for the show: you can hear and see folklore music and yodeler singers, as well as many other instruments. It is however a very touristic restaurant and you are not likely to see many Swiss people eating there.

Drink

• Les Brasseurs, 20 Place de Cornavin (directly across from the train station), (+41) 22 731 02 06. Tuesday to Saturday until 2:00am, Sunday and Monday until midnight. One of the few brew pubs in Geneva, Les Brass serves three flavors of home brew in the usual half pints, pints, and liter glasses or you can go for one of the giant plastic tubes filled with three to five liters. A small menu of pub food and a full restaurant in the back makes it a good spot to waste an evening.. Beer: 3.40 Chf. - $7.40 Chf. [12]

• Café de la Gare, 2 rue de Montbrillant (directly outside of the TGV arrival area of the Gare Cornavin), until 11:00pm daily. Of the two restaurants attached to the hotel Montbrillant this is the pick. The beautifully decorated but unpretentious Café de la Gare captures the laid-back feel of some of the best sidewalk cafés in Paris. It's a great place for dinner as well, with excellent Swiss, French, and Italian offerings. Beer and wine: 3-4 Chf.

• Pickwicks, 80, rue de Lausanne (Take the number 13 Tram from Cornavin toward Nations), (+41) 22/731 6797 ([[email protected]]). Wednesday to Saturday until 2:00am Sunday to Tuesday until midnight. One of the half-dozen or so British pubs. Usually full of football watching ex-pats eating fish and chips while sipping Guinness. Saturday night has low-key dancing to sometimes cheesy disco and pop music. A laid-back, friendly spot. [13]

• Alhambar, 10, rue de la Rôtisserie (Enter in back off of Parc Pélisserie). (+41) 22 312 1313 ([email protected]). Monday noon until 2:00pm, Tuesday through Friday noon until 2:00pm and 6:00pm until 2:00am, Saturday 5:00pm until 2:00am, Sunday 11:00am until midnight. A swanky cocktail bar above the Alhambra Theater. Pretty people in a pretty room, usually with a DJ. A small tapas menu early in the evening and a nice brunch on weekends until 2pm. [14]

• La Clémence, Place Bourg-de-Four. Open from 11:00am until midnight, every day. This cozy little bar on the central square of Geneva's old town more than quintuples in size from April until October when it is able to use a huge swath of the place as it's terrace. During warm weather it's packed, but is such a lovely and central stopping point that it's worth the wait for a table - check out the gallery on their website. In the winter they have the best vin chaud in town. [15]

• Café Demi-Lune, 3, rue Etienne-Dumont. Monday to Wednesday 8:45 until 1:00, Thursday and Friday 8:45 until 2:00, Saturday and Sunday 16:00 until 2:00. Located in a small street connecting to Place du Bourg-de-Four (Old town), this little café has a very charming attitude and atmosphere. A good place for after dinner drinks with good friends. [16]

• Spring Bros. Pub, 35, Grand-Rue. (+41) 22 312 4008. Located in the old town, 10 minutes from the train station, this is a classic Irish pub. The establishment is comfortable and friendly, though on soccer nights, it can get a bit rowdy as fans come to enjoy the large screen TVs. As you might expect, Guinness flows free from the tap, but you can also order sweets, snacks and freshly made hot sandwiches if you get hungry.

Plaine de Plainpalais

Around a dozen of the best bars in town are located around this diamond shaped parade and circus ground in the area southwest of the old town. This shouldn't be surprising since the many buildings of the Université de Genève are arraigned around it as well.

• Remor, Place de Cirque 1, phone number ((+41)22 328 12 70). Really the best Parisien style grande café in Geneva. Artwork by University Students and sometimes the Proprietor hang on the wall. They also offer two salads of the day, and a range of ice-cream treats. On recent evenings they've been screening the best of Swiss film, for free. 3.50/5.00 CHF draft/bottle beers. Free WiFi available.
• l'Ethno, Rue Bovy-Lysberg 1, phone number ((+41)22 310 25 21). This comfy nightspot across the street from the northern tip of the plain is popular with Students as well as with the folks who work at the private banks in the surrounding neighborhood. 4/6 CHF draft/bottle beers. Free WiFi available.
• Moloko Bar, Place des Volontaires (Upstairs from the main entrance of l'Usine), There are punks in Geneva! Well, a few anyway, and they all hang out at the bar upstairs at the l'Usine. When you're sick of rubbing elbows with bankers, politicians, and their lackeys, head over to the smoky interior of L'Usine for a cheap beer and interesting people-watching. L'Usine also has two large dance/concert halls, one downstairs with an entrance by the river and one upstairs. The two halls are booked by three separate organizations, KAB which books punk rock and rasta, PTR which handles slightly bigger name acts, and ZOO which books the best dance hall and electronica music available in Geneva. http://www.usine.ch/
• Le Ferblanterie, 8, rue de l'Ecole-de-Médecine. The Ferblanterie, or Tinsmith would be one of the coolest bars in just about any town, and it happens to be on a street loaded with cool bars. This is very much a student haunt, and a grungy one in all the right ways. Some of the cds in the rack above the cd player are by Paulo Conté, Tom Waits, Fugazi, the Art Ensemble of Chicago, and Charles Mingus, if that tells you anything. 3/6 CHF draft/bottle beers. A glass of wine is about the same.
• L'Etabli, 5, rue de l'Ecole-de-Médecine. L'Etabli is a great place to go when the Ferblanterie is packed, or perhaps it's the other way around. This super-friendly little café/bar/wine bar is a great place to meet grad students to help with your French, or to help with their English, or just to argue politics or whatever. 3/6 CHF draft/bottle beers. A glass of wine is about the same.

Dance

• La SIP (Soul Influenced Product), 10, rue des Vieux-Grenadiers. The SIP is one of the largest and most happening places in Geneva. The music tends toward the mainstream, which does serve to attract a large mixed crowd of locals and expats. The bar is on the first floor and disco on the second floor. open until 5 am. Admittance is strictly subject to the mood of the bouncer due to having been designed with locals in mind. [17]
• The Zoo at l'Usine. See Moloko Bar under Drink.
• Weetamix. 37 Chemin Jacques Philbert. Although it's not the easiest place to get to, Weetamix is able to attract good, mostly local crowds by consistently booking some of the best cutting-edge talent in electronic music from France, Britain, and the U.S.. http://www.weetamix.com
• Shakers, Rue de la Boulangerie 3, (+41) 22 310 5598. Located in the humble old town, this club is known for the wild nights within, thanks to its' very strong cocktails served in shaker glasses. The dance floor is imposing, but once on it, well known for romantic encounters. Very popular with English speakers. [www.shakers.ch]
• Bypass, Carrefour de l’Etoile 1, 1227 Carouge, (+41) 22 300 6565. One of the most modern clubs in Geneva, the Bypass is, for lack of a better word, bling-bling. The dance floor swarms with young professionals and, on occasion, corporate parties and the rooms pound with clean hip-hop and r'n'b. Unfortunately, this club is not near the city center, but still just a short taxi ride from it. [18]

Sleep

There are a lot of hotels in Geneva, but very few of them are actually in anything like the budget range. Hundreds, many right around the central Cornavin train station offer a pretty standard rate of 135 Chf per night for a single. If you arrive late and are willing to spend that it makes sense to look at the automated hotel board in the train station to find the nearest vacancy.

It's hardest to find lodging during large international conferences, and trade shows. The latter, of which the prime example is the Salon d'Auto are usually held at Palexpo. It's worthwhile to do a bit of research to see if your arrival is likely to coincide with one of these events.

For lower hotel prices, try the outlying French cities of Annemasse or Gaillard which are conveniently accessible via public transit from Gare Cornavin.

Budget

• Youth Hostel Geneva, Rue Rothschild 30 (Tram 13 to Môle), +41 22 732 62 60 (fax: +41 22 781 46 45). A clean well maintained place. Well placed for access to the bars and restaurants of the Paquis, and only a 15-minute walk from the central station. 25 Chf and up. http://www.yh-geneva.ch/
• City Hostel Geneva, Rue Ferrier 2 (from the main train station it's a five minute northbound walk up Rue de Lausanne), +41 22 901 15 00 (fax: +41 22 901 15 60). A clean and hassle-free, if somewhat soul-less, hostel located near the budget food haven of Paquis and the central train station. Laundry, internet, lockers and communal kitchens are available for 2 - 4 person dormitories (CHF 28 and up) as well as single (63 CHF and up) and double rooms (70 CHF and up). Book online at http://www.cityhostel.ch/
• Cité Universitaire, Avenue Miremont 46 (bus number 3 to Champel), +41 22 839 22 22(fax: +41 22 839 22 23). A huge dorm space with 500 beds, which means that if all else fails you can probably sleep here and it's cheap. It is a bit far out of the old town though, about 2km south on the bluff of Champel, which overlooks the Arve river across from Carouge. Do remember that, because it is not a hotel, the reception closes at 10pm. If you do stay there check out the tower of Champel in the morning. 16-30 Chf. http://www.unige.ch/cite-uni
• Hôtel de la Cloche, 6, rue de la Cloche (In the Pâquis, take bus number one to Place de Navigation), +41 22 732.94.81 Fax: +41 22 738.16.12. This charming, clean, and relatively inexpensive family run bed and breakfast shares its tiny street with the cab stand of the Hilton. It is usually full so do book ahead! 85Chf-140Chf. http://www.tbh-ge.ch/cloche/

Mid-range

There are hundreds of quality mid-range hotels in Geneva. Here are a couple of representative examples.

• Hotel Lido [19] Rue de Chantepoulet 8, tel: +41 227315530. Close to the train station and outside the red-light district. CHF 160 in high season.
• Hotel Savoy [20], Place Cornavin 8 (Across from the Cornavin train station), +41 22 906 47 00 (fax: +41 22 906 47 90). A nice clean recently remodeled place with prices as close to reasonable as one can find in Geneva. 135Chf-195Chf/165Chf-230Chf Singles/Doubles.
• Le Montbrillant [21], 2 rue de Montbrillant (at the north entrance of the main train station), +41 22 733 77 84 (fax:+41 22 733 25 11). This lovely hotel is slightly pricier than the average mid-range, but the location can't be beat. If you can, get a room on the top floor under the sloping roof. There are two restaurants downstairs: the Café de la Gare (see Drink) which has a separate entrance, and a quality pizza joint which adjoins the lobby. Both are to be recommended on their own.
• Hôtel Bel'Espérance, rue de la vallée 1, (next to the College du Calvin, just off of Place Bourg de Four). +41 22 818 37 37, Fax +41 22 818 37 73. [22] Run by the Salvation Army, the Bel'Espérance is less hotel like than many hotels; they have a little kitchen with small individual refrigerators if you want to cook, and considering how close the hotel is to the wednesday morning farmer's market on blvd Helvetique there's a pretty good chance you will want to. You can take your meals on the rooftop terrace or in the big, comfy lounge area. 90/160 Chf singles/doubles
• Residence Studio, Rue de berne 35, (next to Hotel Novotel,infact its part of Novotel hotel). +41 22 909 90 00, Fax +41 22 909 90 01. [23] Run by Novotel and the cheapest available in Geneva center. Small room in 125 CHF per night excluding tax. The best part is kitchen, with has two hot plates, fridge, and ample crockery. Kitchen cost is 100 CHF per stay, which means if you stay for 2 days or 2 weeks its only 100CHF. The sad part is location of studio which is in red light area.
• Hotel Strasbourg, Rue Pradier 10, (three minutes by foot from the main train station). +42 22 906 58 00, Fax +41 22 906 58 14. [24] Run by Best Western, the hotel is very close to the train station as well as tram and bus lines. The desk staff is very knowledgeable and helpful.

Splurge

It's almost as hard to pick from the huge selection of luxury hotels in Geneva as it is with the mid-range.. that said there are a couple that stand out for their historical importance or excellent locations.

• Des Bergues, Quai des Bergues 33 (On the river near the old pedestrian Bridge), +41 22 908 70 00 (fax: +41 22 908 70 90). The oldest of Geneva's super-luxury hotels, this palace like space faces the old town from a superb right-bank position just above the pedestrian Pont des Bergues. A favorite among European royalty. 450Chf+ (They do run specials. The price can drop as low as 330Chf in slow periods, such as over Christmas). http://www.hoteldesbergues.com
• Les Armures, 1 Rue du Puits St-Pierre (In the center of the old town, up the curved steps from Rue de Rotiserie), +41 22 310 91 72 (fax: +41 22 310 98 46). Lovely 17th Century building in the old town has hosted recent democratic presidents of the U.S. 360Chf+ (Specials sometimes as low as 290Chf for a single.). http://www.hotel-les-armures.ch
• Beau Rivage, 13, Quai du Mont-Blanc (On the northern border of the lake), +41 (0)22 716 66 66 (fax: +41 (0)22 716 60 60). The interieur of this 5-star hotel is breath-taking, old european style, beautiful, service is above any doubts, simply high-class, usually you meet there a lot of rich arabian families. reserve best months in advance... 600Chf+ . Beau Rivage
• Swissotel Metropole, 34 Quai Général Guisan (On the southern border of the lake), +41 (0)22 318 33 50 (fax: +41 (0)22 318 33 00). 5-star hotel with nice old ambiente. Very kind service, in front of it is a park, may be a nice view, but to see much of the lake or the jet d'eau you should take a room on 3rd level or higher (one of the suites). 430Chf+ . Metropole
• Grand Hotel Kempinski, 19, Quai du Mont-Blanc, +41 22 908 9081. Formerly known as the Noga-Hilton, this very modern and luxurious hotel is a typical choice for corporate clients. Features a mini-mall, health club and conference rooms. Prices start at CHF 580.00. [25]

Contact

Phone

Local cellphone service is mainly provided by Swisscom, Orange, and Sunrise. In the second half of 2005, Yallo, Migros and Coop have started their own mobile offers. Don't be surprised if you find your phone using a cell in neighboring France however. If you buy one in Switzerland you will have to either just accept the occasional roaming fee, or be prepared to set the phone manually.

If you are staying for a while you should consider getting a SIM card/and or a phone since it's much cheaper and easier than dealing with payphones. The best deal is with Sunrise SIM cards. These days you do have to register your name and an address to get a SIM card, as Swiss anonymous phone cards have been found on apprehended terror suspects who have never even been to Switzerland!

Payphones are still fairly common here, but very few of them accept coins, so be prepared to buy a prepaid card or to use a credit card (no surcharge).

Swisscom has borrowed one neat idea from the French which you might find very useful: the minitel. Every phonebooth is equipped with one of these electronic directory devices. You just need to know the name (in French) of the type of business you are looking for to get a list, with the closest examples highlighted. A fee is charged for using this system.

Internet Cafés

Internet cafés have just begun to really take off in Geneva, and there are now several that stay open fairly late.

• Internet Café Cornavin, inside the Cornavin train station near the west entrance. Until 10PM every day. This convenient and friendly place offers printing, and laptop stations. If you do plan to use your laptop you need to be able to demonstrate that you have anti-virus software. 6Chf per hour. (specials for regulars and students).
• Point6, 12 rue Jean Violette, +41 22 800 26 00. Primarily a gamer internet cafe, but becoming quite popular with casual internet users. Scanning/photocopying/printing, diskettes/CD burning, faxing services available. Manned by a young staff who as a result of being surrounded by snack machines and video games are very friendly. Prices: free for first 5 minutes, then CHF 5.- an hour.

Wireless Hotspots

• Central Perk, 6 Avenue Du Mail. This living shrine to a certain television show is just off of Plain de Plainpalais. They offer food and drinks and FREE! wireless access (802.11b) (be nice and buy a coffee or beer). Burger: 10 Chf, Beer: 5 Chf, Coffee and Croissant in the morning: 6Chf. http://www.centralperk.com/
• Café de la Gare (see Drink) is a Swisscom hotspot. To use the service you need to either be a Swisscom Mobile customer (see Phone) or buy access cards sold at any Swisscom office, and at the Montbrillant reception desk. The cards have timed values ranging from a half-hour to 1 month of continuous use.
• In the Parc des Bastions there is free wifi internet access available. Just log on to the ville-de-geneve or Bastions network.
• The public library of the city is located inside the Parc des Bastions, and the same network listed above is available inside. Search for the reading room (Salle de lecture), on the 1st floor. There is even electricity to plug your notebook. Opening hours of the room: Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm; Sat, 9am-5pm. To get there by bus: Bus 3, 5, 36, Tram 12, 17 (stop at Place Neuve); Bus 1, 32, Tram 12, 13, 15, 17 (stop at Plainpalais). http://www.ville-ge.ch/bpu/.

For more hotspots, this site might help: http://www.freespots.ch/

Stay safe

Geneva is by and large a very safe place. Violent crime is almost unheard of, although it's important to keep an eye on your belongings in public, as petty theft is a fairly common occurrence. Do report any such activity to the police, you will probably find them much more interested and helpful than police in many other western cities, especially if you speak a little French.

Get out

Most of what you need to know about traveling from Geneva is covered above under Get In. Swiss destinations are almost all served by the CFF from the central train station (Gare Cornavin) while ski resorts in the French alps and the Jura can be reached by bus from the central bus station off of Rue de Mont Blanc or from SNCF's Gare des Eaux Vives. The price of the bus ticket often covers ski lift tickets as well, be sure to ask.

Here are just a few places which make a good day trip from Geneva:

• Lausanne
• Montreux
• Chamonix
• Evian
• Annecy

By hitchhiking

To hitchhike to the direction of Lausanne (North) take bus number 9 towards Gare Zimeysa/Cern and step out at stop Blandonnet. Walk back 200 m Route de Meyrin towards the center, across the bridge over the highway and you´ll find an on-ramp to highway towards Lausanne. Walk down 100 m along the on-ramp and hitchhike before the speed gets high. The position is very good, speed of the cars low, visibility good and there´s plenty of space for cars to stop. You should accept a ride at least to Nyon, where you can continue hitchhiking on the on-ramp. (Hitchhiking on the on-ramp is illegal. Your best bet is usually to try and get a ride at one of the gas station/restaurants on the autoroute itself.)

To hitchhike to the direction of Chamonix and Turin (South-East) take bus 27 towards Thônex-Vallard-Douane and go to the end of the line. Walk through customs to France and stand at the end of the customs just before the cars speed up for the highway. Be sure to have your passport with you when crossing the border. The position is very good, the customs officers are nice, speed is low, there´s space for cars to stop, all the traffic is passing through.

To hitchhike to the direction of Lyon and Paris (South-West, West, North-West) take the bus 9 to stop Blandonnet. Walk about 600m to the next on-ramp in direction of South, the one leading to the highway in the direction of South from Route de Vernier. The position is not very good because the cars speed up and visibility is not really good but there´s place for cars to stop. Take a ride at least 10 km South to the Swiss-French border, where there´s a decent spot to continue. Walk through the customs and hitchhike - preferably with a sign - before the cars speed up. There´s not much space for cars to stop but they can, speed is low and all the traffic is passing through the customs.